- Vehicle on its suspension, on a flat and level surface.
- Preferably, the engine and drivetrain should be in, so all the weight is close to being correct.
- Door seals, weatherstrip, or any other seals and rubber bumpers should be in.
- Adjust panels as close as possible.
- If needed, grind and weld door gaps to make them perfectly consistent.
- Clean all metal with wax & grease remover and lacquer thinner.
- Sand blast any welds or pitting.
- Prep metal first with a finer abrasive, such as 150 grit d/a or a 3M clean & strip disc.
- Prep metal with a high quality and sharp roloc disc, about 50 grit.
- Start with filling the lowest areas first.
- Put a couple small ‘dabs’ of body filler in the door gaps, which keeps the panels completely solid, and can’t move at all.
- Rough in body filler first with 40 grit, and then block sand mostly with 80 grit.
- Re apply body filler over 80 grit , not 40 grit.
- Almost always, entire panels will need to be skimmed with filler.
- Body work and block sand the vehicle as one big panel, not each panel individually.
- Do majority of block sanding with 80 grit.
- Finish filler in 150 grit.
- Fill pin holes with body filler.
- Polyester primer, 5 medium/wet coats.
- Good polyester brands: Spies Hecker, Standox, Glasurit.
- Block sand polyester with True Blox and 100 grit and 220 grit.
- Sand with a soft block and 400 grit.
- Take all body panels apart.
- Finish door jams.
- Finish sanding with 400-600 grit cloth sandpaper on a soft sponge.
- Sealer apart.
- Base Coat apart
- Carefully assemble body panels, just enough so the whole outside of vehicle can be base coated together.
- Disassemble panels and clear coat apart, 5-6 medium coats.
- Wet sand with 600, 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500, 3000 & 5000 grits
- Buff with wool pad first, then 2 steps of foam pads
1932 Ford Victoria owned by: Phil & Deb Becker
Paint: The Refinery by Adam Krause
Built by: Dave Lane of FastLane Rod Shop